The term “salicylic acid” is a common sight on all sorts of acne blogs and forums. Salicylic acid is one of the most popular ingredients in skin care, with a reputation as a leader in treating blemish-prone skin. Praised by dermatologists and bloggers alike, salicylic acid is said to be a standalone treatment for all types of blemishes.
Are these claims true?
Are there any side effects to salicylic acid treatments?
Does salicylic acid deserve its status as a cosmetic outlier?
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How to Reduce Acne with Salicylic Acid?
Acne, a common skin problem affecting both adolescents and adults, can be a source of significant discomfort. Among the various treatments available, salicylic acid has emerged as an effective solution. This article explores in detail its action in reducing acne, taking into account the latest dermatological advances.
Salicylic Acid: a Key Active Ingredient
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid known for its keratolytic and anti-inflammatory action. Unlike alpha-hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, salicylic acid is lipophilic, which allows it to penetrate deeper into the superficial layers of the skin. This property makes it particularly effective in the treatment of oily and acne-prone skin.
Why is salicylic acid useful for fighting acne?
Salicylic acid is a powerful active ingredient. Among its many properties, it is commonly used on the skin for its overall anti-blemish action.
Thanks to its astringent properties , salicylic acid has a keratolytic action on the surface of the skin. It removes dead cells accumulated on the horny layer and thus stimulates skin renewal. Salicylic acid, depending on its dosage, will thus be very useful for the treatment of certain skin conditions such as acne, warts, psoriasis and other scaly pathologies including hyper-desquamation of the scalp (dandruff). Applied to the face using serums and creams, salicylic acid stimulates cell renewal and allows the skin to regenerate, thus implying many benefits on:
- The complexion: Rid of dead cells that dull the complexion, the skin is brighter. As for skin prone to post-inflammatory or photo-induced hyperpigmentation, salicylic acid, by eliminating the cells filled with melanin accumulated on the surface of the stratum corneum, reduces pigment spots for a more even complexion.
- The younger appearance of the skin: Stimulated, cell renewal induces skin renewal for smoother skin.
- Acne: Cell renewal inhibits the formation of comedones by preventing the blockage of pores that causes acne.
Thanks to its antiseptic properties, salicylic acid prevents the growth of bacteria, fungi and viruses on the surface of the skin. It therefore stops the proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes, which causes the inflammatory reactions of acne, visible in the form of papules and pustules. These antiseptic properties also give salicylic acid a preservative role in the formula of many cosmetic products.
Thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, salicylic acid soothes the skin. It is therefore considered a non-irritating active ingredient and is therefore perfectly suited to the most sensitive skin types, including acne-prone skin. In the treatment of acne, salicylic acid calms painful pimples and visibly reduces redness.
Actions of Salicylic Acid on Acne
Exfoliating Power
The main mechanism of salicylic acid in treating acne is its exfoliating effect. It works by accelerating the desquamation of cells in the stratum corneum, an essential component of the epidermis. This action facilitates the elimination of dead skin cells and effectively prevents the accumulation of sebum and cellular debris that can clog pores. By unclogging pores, salicylic acid reduces the formation of comedones, which are the cause of acne pimples.
Purifying Virtue
Salicylic acid provides a deep purifying action, cleaning the pores and removing impurities and excess sebum. This property is particularly interesting for preventing the appearance of new acne lesions and for effectively treating existing acne.
Anti-inflammatory Action
Salicylic acid also has remarkable anti-inflammatory properties , which play a key role in reducing the redness and inflammation associated with acne lesions. This characteristic makes it particularly useful in the management of inflammatory acne, characterized by the presence of painful papules.
In What Form Can Salicylic Acid Be Found?
Salicylic acid is a popular ingredient in the formulation of topical medical treatments and cosmetic products for the face and body. The importance lies in its dosage.
When it is at the heart of topical medical treatments, and therefore used under the supervision of a doctor, salicylic acid can be highly dosed. For example, there is 50% salicylic acid in the treatment of warts, 40% salicylic acid in the treatment of corns or up to 30% salicylic acid in products used during dermatological peels. At this dosage, salicylic acid can have adverse effects. If you notice a skin reaction after a medical procedure, you should contact your doctor.
Salicylic acid is also found in a large number of cosmetic products for two reasons: either for its antiseptic properties which give it the role of preservative, or for its many virtues on the skin, particularly in the treatment of skin imperfections. As a cosmetic ingredient, its use is safe. Indeed, a small dose is enough to benefit from its benefits and its dosage is strictly regulated:
– When used as a preservative, salicylic acid is formulated at 0.5% maximum.
– When used in a solution intended to be rinsed (example: shampoos), salicylic acid is formulated at 3% maximum.
– When used in other products such as serums and creams, salicylic acid is formulated at 2% maximum. This is the case of the Effaclar anti-imperfection serum based on salicylic acid , which contains 1.5%.
When first applied, salicylic acid may cause some tingling. People with sensitive skin may worry about their skin flaking and drying out – a common phenomenon at the beginning of treatment – and believe that salicylic acid is not suitable for them. And yet, this ingredient is highly recommended for sensitive skin.
Indeed, thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, salicylic acid is perfectly suited to the most sensitive skin. Finally, be careful, products with salicylic acid are photosensitizing. It is therefore recommended to use them in the evening or to follow their application with sun protection.
Sebum Regulation
Oily and acne-prone skin often has an overproduction of sebum, a contributing factor to acne. Salicylic acid, by acting directly on the sebaceous glands, helps regulate excess sebum. This regulation helps reduce the oily and shiny appearance of the skin, while reducing the likelihood of new acne lesions forming. By controlling sebum production, salicylic acid not only improves the appearance of the skin, but also plays a preventative role in acne management.
Effectiveness on Different Types of Acne
Salicylic acid has shown notable efficacy in treating various forms of acne, from mild to moderate to more severe cases. It is particularly effective in treating open comedones (blackheads) and closed comedones (pimples), contributing to clearer skin. It is increasingly found in anti-blemish serums due to these properties. In addition, it may be beneficial in treating adult acne, a condition often linked to hormonal and environmental factors, as well as in reducing acne scars, helping to refine skin texture and fade residual marks.
Use in-Care Routines
The integration of salicylic acid into a daily skincare routine should be done with caution. It is advisable to start with low concentration products to allow the skin to get used to them, especially for sensitive or dry skin. Gradual and controlled use is essential to minimize the risk of irritation and dryness.
In addition, regular use of moisturizers and sunscreen is recommended to maintain the skin’s moisture barrier and protect it from the harmful effects of UV rays.
Synergy with Other Assets
The effectiveness of salicylic acid can be increased when used in synergy with other actives. For example, combining salicylic acid with glycolic acid (an AHA) can improve skin exfoliation and accelerate cell turnover. This combination is often used to treat severe acne and acne scars.
Similarly, hyaluronic acid can be incorporated into skincare routines to counteract the drying effects of salicylic acid, providing much-needed hydration to maintain skin elasticity and health.
The Different Types of Skin
While salicylic acid is beneficial for oily and acne-prone skin, its use should be tailored to different skin types. For sensitive skin, it is advisable to opt for products containing salicylic acid in lower concentrations. Combination skin may require a localized approach, applying products containing salicylic acid only to oily or acne-prone areas. For mature skin, salicylic acid can help improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of fine lines, thanks to its exfoliating action.
Prevention
For effective long-term acne management, it is important to maintain a balanced and tailored skincare routine. This includes not only the regular use of products containing salicylic acid, but also the adoption of a comprehensive skincare regimen, which includes gentle cleansing, adequate moisturizing, and sun protection. Preventing acne breakouts also requires careful attention to potential triggers, such as stress, diet, and hormonal changes. A comprehensive understanding of these factors, combined with an effective skincare routine, can help significantly reduce the incidence and severity of acne.
Conclusion
Salicylic acid is a leading active ingredient for acne reduction. Its targeted action on the main causes of acne, coupled with good tolerance, makes it a preferred choice in the treatment of this skin condition. However, a personalized approach, taking into account different skin types, remains crucial to optimize results and minimize side effects.
